The day started with a visit to Shankracharya Temple which was constructed in 371 BC. The Shankracharya temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is thought to be the oldest shrine in the Kashmir valley. The temple is of great importance, not only from the point of view of religion, but also from architectural viewpoint. A high octagonal platform supports the temple, approached by a flight of approximately hundred steps. The sidewalls of the steps once bore some valuable inscriptions. The main surviving shrine, consisting of a circular cell, provides a magnificent view of the valley below. There is tight security before you reach the temple and one cannot carry cell phones, cameras or such devices in the temple or even its periphery.
After having delicious meals at a Punjabi restaurant we left for Gulmarg, about 57 kms from Srinagar. The journey to Gulmarg is half the enchantment of reaching there-- roads bordered by rigid avenues of poplar give over to flat expanses of rice fields interspersed with picturesque villages. Today Gulmarg is not merely a mountain resort of exceptional beauty- it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of 2,650 m, and is the country's premier ski resort in the winter. One can experience Asia's highest and longest cable car ride known as Gondola. The two-stage ropeway ferries about 600 people per hour to and from Kongdoori Mountain, a shoulder of nearby Afarwat Peak (4200m/13779ft). As we were already late, we were not allowed to travel to Kongdoori mountain the main spot and were stopped at 1st stage only. Still we had good time there as fun never stops for us.
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We came downhill through Gondola after quick snacks and tea/coffee and did horse riding till where we parked our car. We left for Pahalgam which is approx 150kms from Gulmarg via Srinagar. Snow clad mountain peaks describe its natural splendor on all sides, a white water river that traverses the bottoms of the narrow valley, and a weather that makes the summers a charm. Pahalgam is base for annual Amarnath yatra which was our main concern. The yatra starts from this place to Holy Cave shrine of Amarnath. We arrived their much before official start date of yatra which was 30th June and we reached on 19th June. We had our dinner in the only restaurant, which was open at midnight and thn rented 2 rooms in a lodge.
Day 8 – 21st June 2007 – Main Yatra
With full enthusiasm we reached Chandanwadi, 16 kms from main city of pahalgam by car. Chandanwadi is gateway to Holy cave and hence Amarnath Yatra. From this onwards starts trekking of 34 kms to Holy Cave. We parked our car in a open ground near river Lidder and told Shelly to be around the car for 3 days. We picked our stuff and put it in one bag as carrying more luggage is not recommended. Lesser is your carrying stuff, more easy it is while trekking up 30kms and thousands feet. It was about 10AM while we started walking when someone stopped us. As we turned we noticed a policeman who was waving at us and calling us back where police tents were installed. As we got near to him, he said “sahib bula rahe hain”. We went to so called sahib which was actually S.H.O of that area and incharge of the post at Chandanwadi. He asked us where we were going? We told him that we are going to Panjtarni as we are organizing “langar” and we are few of those organizers. He asked for a proof and we presented copy of the permission which he refused to accept. He was very cunning personality and we had learnt that J&K police is least co-operative to all the pilgrims while army is very helpful. I would like to inform those who are willing to visit this place that proper official registration is done at any branch of JAMMU & KASHMIR BANK in all cities without which you wont be allowed to start yatra from any end and at any cost. We tried to convince him to let us go but he kind of made his mind that he wont let us go. He wasted atleast 2.5 hours after which we thought there is no chance that he will let us go for yatra. We all were sad and thinking about other means by which we can proceed. We asked that SHO and he adviced to wait for 10 days in Pahalgam and than start yatra on official date. You will think that SHO is right and working under rules as we arrived there much before starting date but on the contrary I would like to tell you that yatra at that time had started from other starting point near Sonamarg which is 2nd base camp for pilgrims knows as Baaltal. As per our knowledge and information we were pretty sure that there wont be any problem but this SHO ruined our all plans. After all our main purpose of trip was this yatra and nothing else. This yatra was the only reason why we have gone through Manali, Leh, Kargil, Srinagar and other places. We had 3 options left: 1st to start yatra from Baaltal which is more than 200kms from Chandanwadi 2nd wait for 10 days at Pahalgam and than start trekking but we were already short of time and 3rd that we go back home as it is though that’s the worst option. We cant go back home without visiting Holy Cave, we made up our mind. It was already 12PM, that cunning SHO wasted our 2 hours in his waste less conversation. By that time we were hungry and we thought to eat lunch at a langar just opposite to those police tents. The beauty of this yatra is these langars which u will find all the way from Chandanwadi/Baltal till and at Holy Cave. You can get almost everything to eat and drink (of course except non-veg and liquor) including burgers, pizzas etc that too totally free of cost. Basically, in short you can have all your 3 meals plus 2 time snacks with tea or coffee or pure milk at no expense, all in these langars. We all were thinking what the hell to do, our only aim was to visit “holy cave” that’s the only thing we could see at that moment. How can we go back just like that after traveling so many kilometers, we thought. By the time I finished my food in noticed Maggu and Nath were not around. I looked here and there but couldn’t find them. I asked Raman where the hell are they and he told me they have left. I was shocked, how come they left us without telling us and where the hell they have gone?, I shouted loudly. Raman said “oye don’t shout. They have left for yatra already. Now we will also leave one by one” I jumped like anything in excitement. After Maggu and Nath, Raman left too followed by Mamu. Me and Manu left in the end. We didn’t take the normal route rather we walked along the river and finally reached a point after few meters where no one can see us. As soon as we started climbing mountain we shouted together “bam bam bholeeee”. From here started the our 34 km trekking to the Holy Cave of Lord Shiva at exactly 12:30PM. This is how I can put our major halts.
PLACE | ALTITUDE | TOTAL DISTANCE | |
MTRS | FEET | ||
CHANDANWARI | 2895 | 9500 | 0 KM |
PISSU TOP | 3377 | 11000 | 3 KM |
SHESHNAG | 3352 | 11730 | 14 KM |
MAHAGANESH TOP | 4276 | 14000 | 19 KM |
PANCHTARNI | 3657 | 12000 | 28 KM |
SANGAM | - | - | 31 KM |
HOLY CAVE | 3952 | 13000 | 34 KM |
Pissu Top
From Chandanwari(9500feet) one climbs a height of 1500 feet to reach Pissu Top(11000feet). The climb to Pissu-top is very steep, one begs for more oxygen on this first stage of trekking. It’s a rocky narrow lane alongside the stream Liddar and surrounding were really enchanting, in the cool ambience like that of the shade of Lord’s holy feet. While we just started the trekking we saw Nath and Maggu coming down, we asked them and they answered that they are scared to climb up such height so they are going back where car was parked. I tried to convince them but they were not ready. It is said that only those devotees can visit Shiva’s holy abode who are called upon by the Lord himself. I thought in myself that may be Maggu and Nath are still not invited by Lord so I told them to wait and will see them after 3 days. By saying this we again started our journey. We met Raman and Mamu at Pissu Top where we took rest for a while, had water, cold drinks and commenced again. We completed our first 3 kms in one hour.
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Sheshnag
After Pissu Top the trek was more or less smooth, with steep downwards. On the way to Sheshnaag we also halted at a BSF post where we rested again. We were offered warm drinking water by the jawans and also a cup of tea. We lay on grass for some time and moved on again. While enjoying heart stealing beauty of mountains, rivers, water falls and amazing nature we reached Sheshnaag, a mountain which derives its name from its Seven Peaks, resembling the heads of the mythical snake. The Journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines on the right bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by civilization. The view of the Sheshnaag lake is magnificent. It is said that no one have ever measure depth of this lake. It was 5:30 PM and we thought to spend our night in the tents at Sheshnaag which were near another BSF base which overlooks the deep blue waters of Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it.. We approached Major of the post who helped us getting tents free of cost. We had our meals at a langar and slept at about 8Pm so that we can start early morning again
DAY 9 Maha Ganesh Top
One climbs up to height of 3300 feet in 4.6kms to MahaGanesh Top(14000) or MG top. The climb is even steeper than that of Pissu Top. But we were still in high spirits, while hailing Lord Shiva with “bam bam bhole” we climbed up MG top walking through rocky pathways and over glaciers which was simply amazing. It is very important to note here that climate at such attitude changes drastically. So one should be ready with most of the stuff that can keep him warm like heavy jackets, monkey caps and gloves etc. Also required is sun screen lotion which helps avoid sun burns. We reached Poshpatri where we had our breakfast with tea at a well organized langar.
Panchtarni
After Poshpatri we descended to the meadow lands of Panchtarni at a height of 12000 ft. Here one faces cold winds, which cause the skin to crack. Hence cold cream / Vaseline are very useful for protection of skin. Panchtarni is a very beautiful place in the feet of BHAIRAV MOUNT. Five Rivers flow here. It is said that the five rivers originated from Lord Shiva's Hairs. We again took a halt over here and had our lunch. We took long break here as it was sunny and the heat was giving rest to our whole body. From this point it is high steep. The path looked very smooth gradient so we started walking while enjoying side by flowing river in the valley. Pretty soon we saw the climb that goes to the peak of a mountain. It appeared there was hardly any energy left to climb such a height and tired legs were retarding too. But lovely Lord was calling, once again with “bam bam bhole” we climbed up the mountain. BSF jawans were also encouraging us with all they can do.
Sangam
After being on the top of peak, the route was less steeper and after a km or so there was another path joining this one, which comes from Baltal. The point is called sangam as 3 rivers from different directions meet here and move towards Baltal. Just after crossing a curve at this point we saw view of Holy Cave of Lord Shiva. From here steep was not high. Most of the time we walked over glacier under which a stream was running as a branch from river Amravati, which was coming from the direction of Holy Cave.
The Holy Cave
After walking 3KMS from Sangam we reached Holy Cave at 5PM. The magnificent sight of Holy Cave took all our tiredness away. We rented a full tent which has got capacity of 10 people actually just in RS 200. We rested for a while had tea inside the tent and than had lunch at a langar near by. I would like to tell you here that on our way from Chandanwari to Sangam we didn’t find even single pilgrim who was visiting the Holy Cave but after Sangam there were hundreds of them coming from Baltal. Raman and me decided to pray at Holy cave, it was about 5:45PM and thought that we will pray again in the morning. I was wearing only a half sleeves t-shirt with my denims and my Levi’s cap. Everyone was staring at me as if I was wearing such less clothes in a freezing temperature and such high altitude. As we reached stairs to the Holy Cave CRPF jawans on duty stopped us and said we cant pray after 6PM. I asked him why and he answered its just a rule, the cave is closed at this time. I started requesting him while there were some others too who were willing to go and pray. At the same time people were commenting on my “summer outfits” which I was wearing at a freezing temperature. While a lady called me Iron-man another old man asked me if I have come from Mount Everest. I replied to him that I am actually coming from Alaska. My main concentration was to pray in Holy Cave and soon our request turned into argument as I saw few people climbing up stairs near the cave. I told the jawans that its bad on their part, they were allowing few people to visit the cave while stopping the others. Later he told us that we can pray only in morning now and Cave will be opened after 6AM. We returned to our tent where Mamu and Manu were waiting. We took rest in the tent for few hours and started gossiping. It was about 6:45PM when it started to rain and the rent of same tent was now RS 1000. We started singing songs loudly in the tent in a common voice which irritated Mamu after which Manu and me went for dinner in same langar. There we heard few people talking that Cave will be closed for general Public next morning as Governor of J&K is visiting the place. I was shocked how would it happen to us. Is it that we have to wait for another day to pray in the Holy Cave? Manu was tensed too, and so were Raman and Mama when they learnt about this. After a quick thinking I added that Governor is not an idle person who will visit cave early in the morning. Moreover, that CRPF jawan assured me that we can visit Cave early morning, and the way I have bashed him, he wont lie to me. We finally made up our mind that we will pray in the Cave as early as possible.
Day – 10 Holy Cave
We woke up at 5AM left the tent, took bath in warm water which was available for RS50 per bucket by some greedy local people. At about 6:45 we climbed up steps where the same CRPF jawan was standing whom I bashed, he smiled at me and did my security checking. We deposited our cameras there as they were not allowed. Finally, we felt close to Lord Shiva, the place I was dreaming to visit since years. My mouth uttered bam bam bhole and Om namah Shivaye. Morning time is the best time to pray Lord Shiva in his Holy Cave, also special prayer is done by pujari only at evening and morning time. I felt blessed as I got chance to pray at auspicious time. Most of the people(about 60-70) climbed up commonly used stairs while we climbed up stairs through which we were suppose to get down. But that mistake was worth. Inside the cave we witnessed about 8 feet tall Shiv Lingam, in front of which there was railing dividing the cave into two. People who climbed up common stairs were standing on the right f the railing while we along with Pujari and one couple were standing on the left. We were closest to the Shiv Lingam. We prayed there for half an hour. I was thinking…..this is the place where Lord Shiva sits, the place where Lord Shiva narrated story of immortality to Parvati Ji. We were now totally free, relaxed, blessed. We had our breakfast from a nearby langar along with tasty elaichi milk. We decided to take different route back via Baltal which is 16kms from Holy Cave. Though it’s a short cut but more steeper. I wanted to experience both ways so I insisted to get down via Baltal. We left the place at 12PM and reached Baltal at 3PM. That was real quick. After our lunch we started looking for a cab which can drop us at Chandanwari which is 200Kms away. Unfortunately we couldn’t find any. But this was part of adventure again. We took lift in army truck till Sonamarg and from Sonamarg to Kangna, Kangna to Srinagar, Srinagar to AnantNag and finally Anantnag to Pahalgam we came by 4 different shared cabs. It was scary but adventurous at same time. We spent our night in a lodge at Pahalgam and met Nath and Maggu waiting for us at Chandanwari next morning.
Day 11
Return from Chandanwari We returned back to Chandigarh after spending night at Jammu, reached Chandigarh on day 12th.